No, they are not golf carts on steroids, they are pulmonias - modified VW Things and the cutest public transportation I have ever seen. They are unique to Mazatlan. Regular taxi drivers started calling them pulmonias, the Spanish word for pneumonia, intimating that the ride in the open air air cars would make you sick. They were trying the squash the competition for fares in its fledgling stage. It didn't work. You see them everywhere. But the name stuck.

The pulmonias we have seen are owned by the individual driver. Each driver takes great pride in his pulmonia, and customizes it to suit his taste and budget. Some have flashy rims, others have boomin' stereos. You may see custom paint jobs, spare tire covers, and canopies. Check out the pulmonia gallery for a sampling.

Catching a pulmonia is easy. All you have to do is make eye contact with a driver. And trust me, they are always looking. Usually it isn't even that much work. As we walk down the malecon, we frequently hear the toot of a pulmonia horn (and the horns are just as cute as the cars) or a shout from a pulmonia driver asking if we want a ride. We always smile and shake our heads no, and they wave and drive on.

You will also see a ready supply of pulmonias outside large stores and shopping areas and at popular restaurants and night life areas. It was outside of Pedro and Lola's that we got our first pulmonia ride. The 8 block walk was fine to the Plazuela Machado for dinner and music, but after a night of drinking and eating and drinking, the walk back was a little daunting.

The ride was fun and the driver was nice. I had to give him some directions to get to our door, but we arrived quickly and safely. We got out and learned our first pulmonia lesson: negotiate a price before you get in. None of the for hire cars in the city have meters. The ride is worth whatever the driver says its worth. He didn't hurt us too bad, but we definitely got the turista rate.

So how do you negotiate a fare and what's fair? Here's what I've been able to glean from long time residents: a ride from Centro to Zona Dorada should cost about 40-50 pesos. Trips within the Zona Dorada should be 25-35 pesos. Trips within Centro should be 25-50 pesos. Of course, you have to balance the fare with the season, the number of tourists in town, and the number of other pulmonias immediately available.

If you need to be picked up at a certain time or from an out of the way place where there aren't usually waiting pulmonias, make friends with your favorite pulmonia driver. Most drivers carry cell phones and will gladly give you their number. Whenever you need a ride, just call them and they will come pick you up.

You can also negotiate with a driver for rides that are more that just point A to point B. You can ask for tours of the city or certain areas. If you want to find out where the great non-touristy restaurants are, your pulmonia driver will take you. Where is the best shopping with the best prices? Your pulmonia driver knows.

It is not customary to tip your pulmonia driver for a ride from point A to point B, but if they do something special like carry luggage or packages, give you a good tour, or provide useful information, a tip is appropriate. Use your discretion.

One last note: a pulmonia will hold 3 average people or 5 skinny people who like each other a lot. If you have a larger group, you may want to try a camion – red pick up trucks with tarp covers and two wooden benches in back. They take up to 8 people.