Well, the Carnaval folks made it. Mostly. Thursday night was pretty much a bust. Only one stage was erected. Vendors were scarce. Olas Altas was devoid of partiers. I guess none of the organizers were really concerned about this end of town since El Recodo was playing at the Aquarium, and the majority of the population of Mazatlan and the surrounding area was there. We had a surprisingly quiet evening until 3:00 AM. During the night, all of the trucks and crews arrived and erected the stages and started sound checking. The noise I had missed all afternoon woke me from my very last sound sleep.
Since then, Carnaval has been in its regular swing. Friday was as energetic as I remember. The vendors bloomed with their garish wares all along Olas Altas. The breeze carried the aromas of french fries, hot dogs, tacos, and churros. We had sound checks all afternoon, and then the police came down the road, sirens blaring, evicting all cars from the area before sealing all the gates. Revelers started to arrive gradually, and by Midnight the area was a shifting, churning wall of humanity- exactly what I have come to expect from the second largest Carnaval celebration in the world, only the celebration in Rio de Janeiro is larger.
We had our regular party for the Combate Naval, the fireworks reenactment of the 1864 battle in which the Mazatlecans repelled a French attack. Our roof happens to be the best location in all of Mazatlan to watch the spectacle. We have a great view of both the beach and the boat from where the fireworks are launched, and everything goes on right overhead. I was pretty badly organized this year, and most of the attendees had to request an invitation. I feel really terrible about that, but it was a great night.
I usually keep things pretty low key. We light the barbecue and Chuck grills hot dogs. Everyone is responsible for bringing their own adult beverages and chairs. Okay, I know chairs sounds weird, but we just don't have that many, and most people here have those camping chairs that fold up and stow in a carrying case, so bringing a chair isn't all that big of a deal. Really.
This year we had quite the feast. Our guests were very generous in what they brought, so we ended up with carne asada and bolillos, pasta salad, ceviche de camaron, peel and eat shrimp, chili, guacamole, and more kinds of chips than I can count. My hot dogs looked pretty wimpy next to all that. Man, was it all good.
The fireworks were spectacular. Nancy took some video with her new camera and has them posted over at her blog. I saw some new types of fireworks this year that I had never seen before. There were some really cool ones that did a spiral thing at the end. It is amazing to be directly under fireworks when they go off. You feel like you are inside a fairy world of glorious light. The embers swirl and drift by so close, you think you might be able to capture one. Of course, its loud enough to shake the roof under your feet, but it's still great. I think that was the last night I was in love with Carnaval.
There are actually fewer stages this year than there were last year. I have counted only seven. But I really can't tell it by the noise levels. I guess it's not really the volume that gives me such a problem, it's the discordance of noise from seven stages at once, all competing to be heard, that starts to grate. The aural chaos is nearly unbearable; senseless syncopation hammering my head until I am unable to form the most rudimentary thought. It is disorienting and it never stops.
Here is a one minute recording I made from my bedroom with the widows closed at 3:30 AM. I don't expect you to get through the whole 60 seconds.
Sunday, we were so ready for a beach day. We packed our beach bag and headed out, only to realize we couldn't actually get to the beach. All of the roads were closed for the first Carnaval parade, which proceeds right along the ocean road. I was so disappointed as we headed back home.
Today is the last parade, which ends directly below our house. Then one last night of partying, and lent begins. I find myself looking forward to the next three days. All the local business owners are exhausted. When they close their doors sometime tomorrow morning, they will stay closed. The businesses won't open again until Friday night, and Olas Altas will become a ghost town. Oh the blessed quiet. And sleep.
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|SAdministrator |m-d-Y H:i:s jennifer - It's over nowDriving through ground zero Wednesday afternoon, Chuck and I had the same thought: what must the cruisers think? and what will they find to do?
Olas Altas still smells like a stale tavern, despite what Noroeste is reporting about the lack of smell. Do you think we will have to wait for rainy season?
Chuck and are are mostly recovered and looking forward the unique energy that is Mazatlan returning. Next up: Bike Week.
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Last night was amazing, woke me up several times over here even with the window closed.
But now it is blessedly quiet even if it is going to take a lot of sweeping to make it nice again.
This morning when we were walking the dogs we crossed paths with two different tour groups from the cruise ships and I can't even imagine what they were thinking. It smelled like beer and (?) and the confetti and litter and squashed lime pieces were everywhere. Oh well.