Carnaval ended pleasantly and fairly quietly on Tuesday night. Well, actually around five Wednesday morning, but if you haven't been to sleep yet, it can't possibly be the next day, right? I could only hear two stages Tuesday night, and one was definitely louder than the other, so what we were hearing was actually discernible as music, not just relentless noise, and it was pleasant. The band was quite good and I liked their playlist.
Wednesday, most of the vendors packed up and left – quietly. The bars and restaurants along Olas Altas were closed. The streets were eerily absent of noise. I was grateful for the serenity no matter how strange it seemed.
The vendors left mountains of garbage in their wake. The streets looked like a dump, but the city couldn't bring the street sweepers through until all the vendors had vacated. The city is usually very good about cleaning up after events like this. Saturday night our hill was teeming with spectators for the Combate Naval, all of whom left behind cast off Coke bottles, beer cans, and Doritos packages. The city brought the street sweepers through around three in the morning, and by the time the first sunlight illuminated the landscape, it took a very practiced eye to know what had happened the previous evening.
Wednesday brought the typical two cruise ships into the Mazatlan Port. Just like Nancy commented, Chuck and I were wondering what the cruisers must be thinking of Mazatlan. The streets were full of trash, most places were closed, and everything smelled like a tavern after a rowdy night. We also wondered what on Earth they were going to find to do; most of the city inhabitants were in bed.
Chuck and I put in an earnest day's work on Wednesday, but at 4:00, we headed for the beach. We just couldn't wait any longer. The beach was equally tranquil. There were some locals having a late snack at the palapa, but I didn't see a single tourist. Only a few, dedicated vendors were present. Even they looked like they were there only because they didn't know what else to do. They trudged up and down the beach, carrying their wares, without ever stopping to offer them to anyone. Perhaps they were shell shocked.
Even the ocean seemed to lack its normal energy, as if it too were resting after the spectacle of Carnaval. The surface was like glass, calmly reflecting pinks and golds and grays and periwinkle. The waves didn't even break; they just whispered to shore.
Yesterday, Telcel came and removed the temporary additional cell tower they install on our hill every year. And, of course, they did it quietly. There was none of the clanging or singing or boisterous laughter that accompanied the erection of the tower.
I am really surprised how long the city is taking to remove all the trappings of Carnaval. The "temporary" gates are still up, although they are all open now. The ticket booths are still standing. The bathrooms are still there, which means that Angel Flores is still closed. The big festival entrance arches welcoming people to Carnaval are still up, reducing traffic to one lane. Maybe the city guys need a rest, too.
All in all, it was a good Carnaval for the city. Over 800,000 people attended. 100,000 condoms were passed out. Only 24 cars were stolen this year, and 8 of them were recovered. There is still a very visible police presence all around the city.
It's Friday, three days post Carnaval, and the city is returning to normal. Bars and restaurants are open as usual. Tourists in fanny packs wander downtown. Children are playing in the street. This will be nice for a few weeks – until Bike Week and it starts again.
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