Mariscos Playa Bonita

Location: Playa Norte, across Avenida Del Mar from the Holel De Cima
GPS: 23 13.030N 106 25.314W

We stumbled upon Mariscos Playa Bonita while strolling along Playa Norte. Its a cute little collection of palapas on the beach. The largest palapa has a circular grill/food prep area in the center. Drinks are kept under ice in a cooler off to the side.

The only menu is a wooden sandwich board sign listing the types of fish and seafood available and the various preparations to choose from. You can have pretty much anything grilled, fried, or cooked in butter. There are no prices listed.

We walked under the palapa and waited for our eyes to adjust to the shade so we could select a table. While we stood there blinking, two people began arranging the table closest to the ocean for us, positioning the chairs to get the best view and making sure they were free from sand. We immediately felt very welcome.

The proprietess took our drink orders. Since there was no menu, we both figured a pretty sure bet was Pacifico. I haven't yet found a place in Mazatlan that doesn't stock it, and I probably never will. She reached under several inches of ice in the cooler and pulled out two very cold Pacificos, then brought out the usual tortillas and condiments.

By now, Chuck and I are getting pretty good at restaurant Spanish, especially seafood terms. I ordered camarones mantequilla and Chuck had the camarones ajo. We sat back and waited for the food to arrive. We had a wonderful view on a perfect day. The water was blue, the sun was bright, and the air was crystal clear. We just sat there and took it all in while diamonds danced on the waves and our bare toes traced random patterns in the sand.

The food arrived, and it was way better than I expected, especially from a hut on the beach. Both meals were served with cucumber, tomato, orange, avocado, and red onion that I swear they picked on their way in that morning. It was fresh and flavorful, with colors that seduced the eye. The shrimp was perfectly cooked and brushed with just enough butter. Chucks was sprinkled with large chunks of garlic roasted just long enough to be lightly sweet, but not carmelized. Even more impressive was the fact that we were served on actual ceramic plates with the heaviest, highest quality flatware I have touched since arriving in Mazatlan. It felt decadent to be eating off of real plates next to the sea. I was expecting paper plates.

While we ate, a strolling mariachi band came down the beach and stopped to serenade us. They were wearing long sleeve shirts, polyester pants, nice boots, and hats on the beach in the sun. They had to be roasting but they played their hearts out.

After lunch, Chuck ordered another Pacifico, but I was ready for something more refreshing, so I asked what types of non alcoholic drinks they had. She started a list of the ususal suspects: coke, Fanta orange, Sprite. But when she said toronja, my ears perked up. Suddenly a grapefruit soda sounded like the best thing in the world. I said “Si! Toronja!” with a little to much gusto. She laughed and came back with a Fresca in a can with a straw. I was confused for a second, because I have never given Fresca much thought. If you'd asked me, I would have said that Fresca was like a Sprite. But sure enough, it says grapefruit on the label. It was cold and refreshing and I have been hooked ever since.

A man came down the beach with a platter on his head. He stopped in the palapa and lowered the platter. We were amused to see he was carrying a tres leches cake and selling slices. If you had told me a week ago that I was going to eat a piece of cake that wandered down the beach on some stranger's head, I would have called you a liar. But we did. And it was good. He had a backpack with plates, napkins, and forks. It was the best tres leches cake I've ever had.

We had a wonderful afternoon. And it was cheap. We had 3 Pacificos, 2 Frescas, camarones mantequilla and ajo with all the trimmings, and tres leches cake for less that 200 pesos, including tip. The scenery was free.

If you plan on going to visit Mariscos Playa Bonita, and I think you should, be sure to check the tide. The restaurant closes when the tide rises, which is prudent. Its so close to the ocean that it floods at high tide.

You can see more pictures from this review in the photo album.